Non-Aristo-Craft Revo Installations

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Bob DeForge
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Posts: 130
Joined: Tue Dec 05, 2000 5:00 am

Rev with sound in the Bachman Climax

Post by Bob DeForge » Mon Aug 19, 2013 3:01 pm

Has anyone installed the Revo with sound in a Climax and got the lights to work?

Engine and sound runs fine, but no lights nor firebox flicker.

There are three different GND soldering pads around the B+ soldering pad but which GND to hook the - side of the battery into?

I would think someone out in train land has done this install and made it work without causing too much magic smoke!

Bob

Alan Lott
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Post by Alan Lott » Mon Aug 19, 2013 7:15 pm

Hi Jerry,

The only method to delete that I know of is to click on the "edit the post" tab and when you post appears just delete the wording by back spacing: continue until all wording has gone.

You then need to type in the words "Post deleted'" in order to conform with the board protocol. i.e. there must be some wording entered.

Of course others may know of another way. ;)
Alan
Member OVGRS

http://www.dartmouthrailriver.co.uk
http://www.buckfast.org.uk
Learn from the mistakes of others. You can’t live long enough to make them all yourself.
Eleanor Roosevelt
US diplomat & reformer (1884 - 1962)

Jadeski
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Joined: Fri Oct 25, 2013 11:05 am

Post by Jadeski » Fri Oct 25, 2013 12:15 pm

I have a Bachmann C-19 and I just received a CRE57000SS Revolution set with generic steam sound and I have read that in order to power the lights in the locomotive I need to jumper some of the connections on the main circuit board in the tender,

Does this sound right ?

Add jumper between soldering pads "LEFT W" TO "GND" and between soldering pads "RIGHT W" to "B+" and does it matter which soldering pad as there are three "B+" and three "GND" on the main circuit board.

and one last question does anyone know if "LEFT W" is the -ve and "RIGHT W" is the +ve connection ?

I just don't want to short anything out before I start.

Thank you
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TomStephens
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Joined: Sun Mar 25, 2012 8:31 pm

Jumpers

Post by TomStephens » Sat Oct 26, 2013 2:36 am

I would say that it depends! Are you running track power or battery?
I don't have a C19, but I have a 2-6-6-2 and they may be similar.
If LEFT W and RIGHT W are the track inputs, they could reverse polarity. This would cause smoke if you installed the jumpers as you said. I used a full wave bridge rectifier to connect the track inputs to GND and B+. Then it doesn't matter if the track inputs reverse polarity.
If you use battery power, it would not matter.
I used a rectifier and I can switch back and forth between track and battery without problems. The battery inputs and the track inputs in the 2-6-6-2 go to the same place through the track/battery power switch.
Tom

Jadeski
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Joined: Fri Oct 25, 2013 11:05 am

Post by Jadeski » Sat Oct 26, 2013 7:25 pm

Tom,

Thanks for the reply, I am using battery power.

Thanks again,

Mike

wayne jardine
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Joined: Fri Aug 24, 2001 4:00 am

Post by wayne jardine » Tue Oct 29, 2013 2:22 am

Mike
It should plug right in and every thing should work for you on the C-19, know extra work
Home of Great Northern of the Pacific Northwest

Jadeski
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Posts: 5
Joined: Fri Oct 25, 2013 11:05 am

Post by Jadeski » Sat Nov 02, 2013 1:33 pm

Wayne,

I did as you suggested and everything worked, all the lights and fans worked without any modifications on the circuit board.

Thank you very much,

Mike

J Garry
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Joined: Mon May 02, 2005 4:00 am

Post by J Garry » Sun Nov 03, 2013 3:03 am

I had Dave Bodnar design and the Revolution to operate 2 servos. I use this to operate my Jersey City PRR tug that is 1/32 scale. Work great never gets out of range and easy to control direction and speed. Had him build a second one and I use that in a 1/29 scale 250 ton crane from http://www.thegalline.com. for boom and cable operation. Jack
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TI38Lzs2bZQ

T L Hutchins
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Posts: 615
Joined: Sat Feb 21, 2009 1:27 am

Bad speaker side effects, trivia

Post by T L Hutchins » Fri Apr 25, 2014 8:34 pm

I just installed a Revolution in a trailing car for small HLW stuff using the wonderful wiring info at the beginning of the post. All of the function keys showed "NF" on the transmitter when pressed including 'F1', and of course no sound. I have not wired the lights yet, but all else works.

Happily all I had was a bad aftermarket speaker. Although it was marked 8 ohm 2 watt, after I removed it and tested on my trolley with the same results, I metered it and found it was a variable(?) 2 ohm dc resistance. Although I still need to wire the lights, they could be run 'on' all the time if necesary.

A new speaker fixed the function keys and sound. I was quite surprised that the bad speaker would feed back into the receiver and turn off ALL the function keys.
---Hutch

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